French Wine Harvest Lowest Since 1945

It appears this year's French wine harvest,

as predicted, 

is the worst in over 70 years. 

Spring frosts decimated vineyards, 

(twice this past April)

causing the harvest to be 18% lower than 2016

which was the lowest in decades. 

And not just in France.

Austria, Germany, Hungary and Switzerland 

were also hit hard. 

The losses have varied anywhere from 25 to 90 percent

despite some vineyards employing old-fashioned 'smudge pot' techniques

using fires in oil drums and fans to hinder the damaging cold on the vines. 

Climate change is also a challenge to this business. 

One article suggests that global warming will cause

grapes to ripen earlier causing low quality wines and higher alcohol content

(which the French I know do not care for.)

But the article also stated 

that while this year's grape harvest quantity will be down,

 the effect of the warm, dry summer weather

means the quality will be high.

So at least there's that!

May want to stock up on your favorite French wines

in case of price hikes.  

While I'm a fan of American (specifically California) reds,

I'm not partial to the French reds.

And just the opposite with whites. 

I love French whites but not so much American whites. 

It will be interesting to see how the French, 

in all their brainstorming on how to deal with their challenges,

will end up handling climate change

and how the business, and the wines, will change. 

à Votre Santé.

(Photos copyright: Kirsten Steen

Info via articles in The Guardian and The Daily Meal.)

No UFO's in Chateauneuf-du-Pape

According to both The Local and The Telegraph,

the little Medieval town of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the Vaucluse dept of Provence

 is upholding the 62 year ban on flying saucers, and/or flying cigars. 

In 1954, after a man reported having seen two beings 

who looked like deep sea divers embarking from a cigar-shaped space ship,

 then Mayor Lucien Jeune declared the ban,

"Any aircraft known as flying saucer, or flying cigar, 

which should land on the territory of the community

will be immediately held in custody." 

And current Mayor Claude Avril is

"not going to touch the ban."
More known for its wines at the time, 

the ban's publicity brought journalists and the public alike

who probably also enjoyed the wine. 

Having spent a little time in Chateauneuf-du-Pape 

the summer before last while spending two weeks in Provence, 

I can attest to both the fine wine and the charm of the hillside town. 

Aliens need not apply!

************

This election season has bowled me over

and I'm still trying to find my equilibrium...

so I'll take whatever I can get. 

Hope you're finding what you need to get through. 

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen) 

New Fines on Paris Metro

According to TheLocal.fr, 

fines just went up in the Paris Metro. 

So many people dodge travel costs 

(over 220,000 people/day costing 1 million euros/day),

transport chiefs are going to make it hurt more if caught. 

And the hike in fines not only targets those who don't pay

but also those who make too much noise, talk too loud, play loud music,

don't muzzle their dogs, beg or forget their bag on the metro.

They are so tired of having to issue alerts for suspicious bags

that usually (thankfully) turn out to be nothing, 

they will now fine you if they have to issue an alert due to your forgetfulness. 

Fines for not having your metro ticket 

if stopped by the controls now

is 50 euros. 

Up 50% from when we made the mistake of not keeping our ticket 

in our pocket until we got outside the metro. 

Note to self: 

When traveling the Paris metro,

make sure to keep your used ticket on our person 

until you have exited the station. 

You can use the extra 50 euros on entertainment in Paris! 

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)

The Future of Paris

Between terrorist killings, flooding, never-ending strikes

and Parisians feeling like they've lost their joie de vivre,

it's easy to get caught up in depressing bad news.

Not to mention the stuff here at home. 

I choose here to focus on positive highlights.

And a bit of exciting news:

In February this year,

23 teams were selected to create architectural projects

to reinvent the future of Paris.

According to ArchDaily, Reinventer.paris,

an urban initiative

working with Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo to reinvent city life,

put out a call for submissions

for innovative ideas and cutting edge designs.

 Looking to solve some of Paris' environmental, energy and consumption challenges,

including finding new use for abandoned spaces,

it will be fascinating to see what kind of creativity springs up around Paris 

with an eye toward the future.

I love the designs that endeavor to put a garden

in every inch of available space. 

 Click Here

to see design photos for yourself.

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)

12 Ways Tourists Annoy The Parisians

The Local asked readers the top 12 complaints

that drive Parisians crazy:

1. Stop getting robbed~ 

In other words, watch your money closer

and be more careful on the subways.

Keep your purse and pack in the front and wallets out of trouser pockets.

Apparently, our carelessness is giving Paris a bad name. 

2. Thinking no one speaks English~ 

Be careful what you say in front of others

and don't assume the Parisians don't understand you. 

3. Stop with the Locks~ 

No one, especially the Parisians, is happy about the love locks

damaging bridges in and around Paris. 

Nor the keys tossed into the Seine. 

It's causing huge problems for the bridges and the river

so take a Selfie and post it on Facebook or email it to your friends

but keep your locks to yourself. 

4. Manners go a long way~

Saying Bonjour before asking for help or directions

is common practice among Parisians

so consider saying hello or Excusez-moi before launching into your questions. 

5. Metro etiquette~

There are several unspoken rules when traveling by metro:

Let others off before getting on.

Take off your large backpack and keep it on the ground next to you or between your feet.

Don't lean over others to look at the Metro map again and again.

Move back away from the door to let others in.

Keep your voice down while inside. 

6. Velib bikes~

These are meant to help Parisians (and visitors) get from place to place in a hurry.

If you want a group bike tour, find one online and schedule it. 

And remember to keep your Velib on the street

and not ride on the sidewalk. 

7. Learn the basics~

Everyone has told you when traveling to France

to at least learn a few phrases to start with. 

As mentioned before, Bonjour or Parlez-vous anglais? 

lets them know you're trying. 

8. Blocking while taking photographs~

Be mindful of blocking pedestrians and/or traffic while stopping to take your pics.

Yes, everything IS gorgeous but remember you are probably about the 

100th tourist they've had to step or drive around that week. 

Take care that you're not blocking someone's way. 

9. Table etiquette~

Sitting down at a table clearly set for lunch or dinner

and asking for drinks only will leave your waiter plenty surly. 

Or moving chairs and tables around to suit you 

can sometimes cause them fines from the Police

so ask first. 

10. Keep your voice down~

The French are a much more discreet lot

and when sitting in close quarters (as many of the cafes, metro and trains are), 

they don't appreciate our booming voices or laughter. 

Again, more manners than anything. 

11. Road hogs~

Apparently, far too many visitors insist on walking down narrow pathways

en masse. 

This seemed to be a common complaint

and can be easily rectified by walking in couples or single file

to keep oncoming traffic happy. 

12. Changes to the menu~

It's a simple thing in the US and most restaurants will accomodate us

but in Paris, it is again considered rude. 

Ask for substitutions at home

but when in Paris, try it the way the chef created it. 

Keep those chefs happy! 

Some of these seem pretty basic and maybe even a little whiny

but with 30 million tourists a year, 

I imagine some small slights

can become huge. 

Seems common sense mostly. 

If you're not sure what bothers your hosts,

do a little reading online about etiquette of your host country.

We appreciate it when travelers do the same for us. 

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen

Info via The Local)

French hospital to offer wine to terminally ill patients

In a little French news,

a hospital in southwest France,

located in Clermont-Ferrand,

plans to open a wine bar specifically for the terminally ill. 

Dr. Virginie Guastella decided it was time 

to bring pleasure to those coming to the end of their lives

through 'medically-supervised wine tasting.' 

The wine bar will include champagne and whisky

and patients will be welcome to invite friends and family. 

Those French are always considering quality of life! 

(Photos copyright: Kirsten Steen

Info thanks to France 24

Article by Louise Nordstrom)

Le French bashing

There seems to be a fight of words 

about the downfall (or not) of France

between Newsweek and Le Monde.

An article in Newsweek states several reasons for the 'Fall of France,'

among them those sky-high taxes, the high price of food and living

and the greatest minds leaving to escape said taxes and... Francois Hollande.

France has come back with a few choice words of its own

defending their culture with its high ranking in foreign investment, according to Ernst and Young;

and in its productivity, still behind the US but with a shorter work year; 

its high population growth and life expectancy (both beating the US);

and of course, its gastronomy: the number one employer in France. 

For me, there is nothing anywhere in the world

like eating in France.

You cannot go to any cafe or restaurant in the US
and get escargot floating in butter, garlic and parsley.

Our steaks may be more tender

but the French smother them with a peppercorn sauce

that makes it out of this world. 

(And while that's the most plebeian of fare,

it's one of my favorites.) 

What are your favorite things about France
and what do you think about Le French bashing?

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen
from Restaurant de la Tour in the 15th)

He said, She said and Haute Cuisine~ Missing Paris Day

After seeing this sweet French film recently, Haute Cuisine, (which I loved and recommend if mainly for Catherine Frot's beautifully strong leading performance and the delicious culinary scenes), I couldn't help but take a peek at the article on the new book out by the head man in the main kitchen of the palace.

Chef Bernard Vaussion, who's been employed in the Elysee Palace's main kitchen since 1974 and is retiring Wednesday, has published a memoir: La Cuisine de l'Elysee: a la Table des Presidents.

According to the film (based on the true story of a country woman from the Perigord, real name Daniele Mazet-Delpeuch, sought after by Francois Mitterand to be his personal chef in the palace's smaller, private kitchen), the men of the palace's main kitchen (so Monsieur Vaussion?) caused her some grief.

In an interview with Mazet-Delpeuch in the New Zealand Herald, when asked how difficult it was to work in such a male-dominated arena, she replied, "When I am in the kitchen, I am the boss and some people didn't like that." About the film, she states that it was well done and that "the atmosphere of the palace kitchen was portrayed in a very real way; hard but also very enjoyable to be the president's private chef." 

Mazet-Delpeuch has spent time this year touring for promotion of the film. But lest you think she is self-serving in her pursuit, when asked about her next adventure, she answers that she is considering "a project that has been presented to me that involves teaching young, orphaned Indian women to cook so that they may have some hope for their future and be able to support themselves." 

"Cooking has never been a career for me--it is a passport for adventures." 

                                ***********************************************

In his book, Vaussion details the eating habits of each of the six French heads he worked under from Georges Pompidou to the current Francois Hollande.

In case you're interested:

Pompidou (1969-74) preferred traditional French cooking, heavy and rich like Boeuf Bourgignon.
Valery Giscard d'Estaing (1974-81) was partial to lighter, healthier fare and loved scrambled eggs with truffle sauce.
Mitterand (1981-95) adored Breton oysters, the finest foie gras and caviar.
Jacques Chirac (1995-2007) was famous for his love of veal's head (or Tete de Veau).
Nicolas Sarkozy (2007-12) also preferred healthy food in keeping with his trim figure. But with the recession, he took it upon himself to remove the most expensive caviar and cheeses from the menu (except when Angela Merkel came to visit!)
Francois Hollande (2012-present), a chocolate and wine lover, has put cheese back on the menu. Apparently also a huge fan of the American cheeseburger, maybe that's just been too much for M. Vaussion.




(Article by Catherine Viette from France24.com)
(Interview by Nici Wickes in The New Zealand Herald)
(Mazet-Delpeuch's book Here)

Baguette less popular

Popularity of the traditional baguette seems to be on the wane. 

According to The Telegraph, the French are less inclined to consume these days. 

While I'm a fairly gluten-free eater most of the time,

I do reserve the right to a few delectable hunks of baguette with my cheese when in France. 

And there's nothing like typical baguette street sandwiches made with

 fresh butter, fromage and jambon to be eaten on a park bench. 

I typically buy the Pain Cereale

for its healthier properties. 

But with cheese, it must be baguette. 

The French swear that they never snack between meals

but on every single day of the week, 

one can see them walking down the street, 

baguette under arm, top chunk missing and chewing vigorously.  

 It has just the right outer crunchiness and spongy interior 

to make it perfectly acceptable to be eaten alone. 

And its subtle taste leaves each rather-too-large slice of cheese

to be enjoyed in all its pure flavor

without being overpowered. 

France is beginning a national campaign 

(to help out those 26,000 boulangeries) 

similar to our milk industry's "Got milk?" campaign. 

So, if you suddenly have a strong desire

for some of that spongy goodness, 

someone is behind it. 

Go with it. 

Save the boulangerie! 

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)

Jean Paul Sartre- D. April 15, 1980

Besides being 'Tax Day', 

and now and forever the day of the Boston Marathon bombing,

it is also the anniversary of the death of Jean Paul Sartre

in 1980 at the age of 74. 

A French existentialist philosopher, writer and activist,

(born June 21st, 1905)

he is known for so many different literary, political and philosophical works,

I won't even try to name them all. 

What I did not know about him

(and one of the things I love about blogging--the learning aspect)

is that in his early years, he was a serious prankster.

And in later life, an anarchist. 

In 1927, he and some of his school friends

set up a media prank involving Charles Lindbergh's name

after his famous New York-Paris flight.

Newspapers carried the word that Lindbergh was to be awarded an honorary degree

from Sartre's Ecole Normale.

Thousands of spectators, including the media, flocked to witness history,

only to learn later they were fooled by 

a Lindbergh look-alike. 

Two years later, Sartre met the woman who would become his lifelong partner,

Simone de Beauvoir.

 Their list of lovers is a rather sordid tale

including another tidbit I didn't know: that of de Beauvoir losing her teaching license for seducing, and sharing, students with Sartre.

She turned down Sartre's proposals of marriage on more than one occasion. 

And died April 14th, 1986. 

It is here,

 at the Cimetiere de Montparnasse, 

that they lie together for eternity. 

(Photos copyright: Kirsten Steen)

Merci, Wikipedia!

Les Francais Miserables?

Depressed? Paranoid? Suicidal?

THE FRENCH?

Ok, I knew they were whiners,

complainers about EVERYTHING. 

But how is it possible that with such INSPIRATIONAL ARCHITECTURE,

such gastronomic LUSCIOUSNESS,

such BEAUTY, 

HISTORY,

MACARONS for heaven's sake,

and LADUREE...

and of course one must also mention the 

short work weeks, universal health care, five+ weeks of vacation,

cheese, red wine, Sauterne and foie gras

and on and on and on...

How is it possible that the French are considered 

the most depressed country

in all of Europe?

A recent study has shown that, even with the best of everything,

the French are the most unhappy, distrustful, depressed people.

Apparently the highest suicide rate in Europe, 

the highest number of anti-depressants eaten like bon bons,

according to a report by Claudia Senik of the Paris School of Economics, 

  is due to a lifetime of training that begins with primary school. 

Harshly critical teachers and heavy competition early on

create an atmosphere of low self-esteem, pessimism and distrust 

that lasts throughout their lives. 

Encouragement, praise and general cheerfulness are frowned upon

leaving an entire culture with a feeling of mediocrity and insignificance.  

And all this time, 

I thought their highly vocalized distaste for every other culture on the planet

was a national feeling of superiority.

But as usual, it's not really about us.

It's about them. 

Next time you see a French person on the street,

give them a warm smile 

(and disregard the scowl.) 

Apparently, they need it. 

To read more on the subject, 

go to Sophie Pilgrim's blog.

(Photos copyright: Kirsten Steen)

Paris Pop Ups

A friend recently told me about a new Pop Up restaurant

 in Paris just near the base of the Eiffel Tower called 180,

so named because it will be open only 180 days. 

Pop Up Eateries are the newest craze in Paris

with chefs, new or seasoned, finding short-term spaces for limited-time-only meals

set in whatever works: warehouses, former restaurants, someone's apartment. 

Some chefs are looking to build their culinary career or reputation

while young chefs may want to curb the high cost of opening a traditional restaurant.

Others are simply looking to expand their creativity and innovation,

offering a gourmet yet affordable dining experience.

A few even hope to take the craze outside of Paris

with package deals which will include train tickets, accommodations 

and a Meet the Chef or Winemaker evening.

180 is located on the 10th floor of the Pullman Hotel 

with a rare restaurant view of the Eiffel Tower. 

To see some some great photos of the view, 

click HERE.

For an even more hip dining experience in Paris, try

180

Pullman Hotel, 10th Floor

22, rue Jean Rey, 15th Arrondissemtent

Nightly: 6pm-2am

Until July 7, 2013
01.44.38.57.77

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)

Nouveaux Cloches for Notre Dame's 850th Anniversary

New bells will be ringing this Easter in Paris! 

Nine new bells, on display at Notre Dame,

will begin pealing in time for Palm Sunday.

While there is some controversy about what will happen to the old bells,

the one remaining Great Bell, Emmanuel, will stay. 

The others, replacing the old 'out of tune' bells,

are going in to celebrate the founding of the cathedral in 1163.

And according to the Seattle Times, each will have names: 

Jean-Marie, Maurice, Benoit-Joseph, Steven, Marcel, Dennis,

Anne-Genevieve, Gabriel and Mary will join Emmanuel,

the only original bell not taken down and broken in the French Revolution. 

And written on each bell, a Latin inscription:

Via viatores quaerit.

"I am the path looking for travelers." 

If you are in Paris on March 23rd,

listen for the sound of the medieval church bells of old

and follow the travelers path to the city's beloved

Our Lady of Paris.  

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)

Pantalons allowed!

It's official! 

As of January 31st, it is now legal for women in Paris to wear pants! 

According to The Telegraph, last July, France's minister of women's rights, 

                  Ms. Najat Vallaud-Belkacem, was given a public request by

 Senator Alain Houpert to repeal the ancient, unenforced law

which stated that women must ask permission from the police to be 

dressed as men (in pants!) or be arrested. 

At certain points (1892 & 1909), an amendment to the law allowed women 

to wear trousers if they were "holding a bicycle handlebar or the reins of a horse." 

This repeal  may seem a tad late although, 

 Gail Collins writes in her new book 

"When Everything Changed: The Amazing Journey of American Women from 1960 to the Present,"

that in 1960, a young secretary was reprimanded by a traffic judge 

for wearing slacks in his courtroom and sent home to change into more appropriate attire...

and most women had to get their husband's permission to apply for a credit card. 

It's not so very far away, women needing permission 

to be even slightly equal to men. 

But at least, you can rest assured that as of this year, 2013,

you can now wear slacks in Paris without the least fear of being arrested. 

Who knew?!

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)

Starbucks on Montmartre? Vive les petits cafes!

This little beauty is on one of the side streets 

down the hill from Montmartre's Place de Tetre.

Sad to say that as soon as next month,

the famous square, filled with painters and artists,

 will become home to a Starbucks. 

Members of the association Paris Pride (Paris Fierte)

have vowed to fight it to the end using

petitions and demonstrations. 

I myself have some very strong feelings about it. 

What's your feeling?

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)

Un Petit Cafe

Just a little French cafe vert, and news, to take your mind off the January blues.

I found this cafe on one of my American Writers in Paris walks

and couldn't resist snapping its sweet photo. 

On the French front:

It appears that Gerard Depardieu has received his Russian passport for tax exile

and famed French actress and animal rights activist Brigitte Bardot 

is also threatening to follow suit if Baby and Nepal,

two elephants diagnosed with tuberculosis

and soon to be put down at the

  Tete d'Or Zoo in Lyon, 

are not given reprieve 

and allowed to live.

And Russia is now happily awaiting a mass migration of wealthy Europeans. 

Somehow I always feel better after reading French news!

(Photo copyright: Kirsten Steen)